I eat at Izakaya Minato on Washington Avenue on snowy February Tuesdays or torrential March Wednesdays as often as I can. Make that “ate.” Thirty years ago, I lived in Japan and the restaurant’s food is, for me, “natsukashi,” which means nostalgic in Japanese, but less treacly. Also, the food is wonderful.
In a previous world, a prepandemic world, Izakaya Minato would not take reservations (except for large groups), and more than once when I stopped by for dinner in the summertime, I was unceremoniously told the wait would be 1 1/2 hours. I did not wait.
So it was with a guilty joy that I got online recently and ordered and paid for curbside pickup bento boxes for the exact evening and the exact minute that I wanted to eat, a service the restaurant has branded Minato Express Japanese Kitchen. There was no wait when my partner and I arrived, either, no hordes of tourists nor knowledgeable Portland foodies crowding us out. I simply phoned the restaurant to say I’d arrived, and less than a minute later, a masked woman stepped outside to hand us a Minato-stamped brown paper bag with a Japanese fried chicken bento ($13), a sake lees-marinated black cod bento ($14), two orders of ice cream ($9 each) and two pairs of disposable chopsticks.
About that ice cream, because between the pandemic and the recession, I say eat dessert first. In normal times, Alec Haviland who makes Dear Dairy ice cream, also works as a waiter at Izakaya Minato. The chocolate flavor struck me as boring – I’m sure I was wrong – so we’d ordered two helpings of Brown Butter Caramel instead. I was wrong about the two helpings, too. The cartons were 12 ounces each and were – or should have been – perfect for sharing. Food secured, we walked to nearby Fort Sumner Park for a picnic dinner. Heads up: The ice cream is not packaged to stay cold. After insisting to my picnic-mate that I couldn’t possibly eat 12 ounces myself – me? no, never – I did. It was at once sweet and savory, creamy and chewy, outrageously good.
In addition to the main event, each bento box comes with a heaping mound of sticky white rice, a few buttercup-yellow daikon pickles, two bite-sized pieces of Japanese sweet rolled omelet, a paper condiment cup of Japanese potato salad and edamame (which could have used a vigorous shake of salt). The fried chicken also came with raw shaved cabbage and silken, sesame-tinged, spicy mayonnaise sauce for dipping (I could have eaten it with a spoon). The petite piece of cod was moist and delicately flavored. The chicken, boned and cut in small pieces, was moist too, but with bigger, louder flavors; while Joe watched the sunset, I stole several bites.
Bento boxes were designed for takeout – the Japanese bring them to school, to work, to kabuki performances, to spring picnics under blossoming cherry trees and on long-distance train rides. In addition to bento, Izakaya Express was offering udon with fiddlehead tempura ($11), sashimi (six pieces for $15), fried pork cutlet with Japanese curry ($13) and more, though a Facebook post indicated that there may be menu changes this week. Next time I go, if it’s still there, I won’t try to resist the $2 “Jello shot!” The menu describes it this way: “Salt plum-infused tequila, honey, lime. We are living in strange times right now, might as well have a jello shot.”
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