To de-beard mussels, pull out the dark threads that protrude from the shell. Do this just before cooking as mussels die when de-bearded. Mop up the delicious broth with good bread.

3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 c. finely chopped onion

3 garlic cloves, minced

4 anchovy fillets (from 2-oz. can), minced

1 tsp. grated lemon zest

1 tbsp. lemon juice

1 tbsp. lime juice

1/4 tsp. dried red pepper flakes

2 lbs. mussels

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Thin slices of lemon and lime

Directions:

1. Heat the oil in a medium-sized skillet. Cook the onion in the oil over medium heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and anchovies and cook, mashing the anchovies until they dissolve, for 2 minutes. Stir in the lemon and lime zest and juice and the pepper flakes. (This base can be made a day or so ahead and refrigerated.)

2. Combine the mussels and wine in a large pot. Cover, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until the mussels open, 4 to 10 minutes, depending on size. Remove the mussels from the pot with a slotted spoon and transfer to a serving bowl.

3. Meanwhile, if the citrus sauce has been refrigerated, reheat in a saucepan. Carefully pour the mussel broth into the citrus mixture, leaving behind the last third or so of the liquid, lest it contain any grit.

4. Pour the sauce over the mussels, sprinkle with parsley, garnish with lemon and lime slices, and serve.

Yield: 8-10 appetizer servings